| ‘Samvat 107 sri paramadeva pka maharajesu | | | | Binod Khanal of Antique Gallery has his own views, |
| jayavarmma'. | | | | ‘ It depends on the type of customer. Sometimes I |
| Shyam Sunder Rajbanshi of the Epigraphy division | | | | get very good prices.' He has an antique gramophone, |
| (Department of Archaeology) read the inscription at | | | | the use of which he demonstrated by cranking it up |
| the base of the life-sized statue with a good deal of | | | | and playing on it an old Tara Devi LP. He has priced it |
| excitement. After painstaking effort and much debate | | | | at Rs.60000.00. Pointing to a two feet tall bronze |
| between experts, the literal translation was finally | | | | Budha statue he revealed that it had been sold via the |
| deciphered as, ‘ The year 107. Among the Kings, | | | | Net for Rs. 1,20,000.00, ‘ I haven't even seen the |
| the Fourth, Late Sri Jayavarmma.' | | | | buyer. Business on the Internet could be a good way |
| Thus a chapter in the ancient history of Nepal was | | | | to increase sales.' |
| unveiled. The material used in the making of this | | | | However, he is not so enamoured with metal statues, |
| antique statue- sankhu type sandstone (sandstone | | | | especially those of deities.Nor is Om Narayan Shrestha |
| without polish), as well as the use of an early script | | | | of New Curio House, ‘ Most curio shops are |
| proved that this statue was from the first Lichchavi | | | | reluctant to deal in metal idols. There's too much hassle. |
| samvat (Saka Samvat), which meant that it was | | | | One can unnecessarily get into trouble.' Hari Bista |
| made in the 2nd century A.D. This statue, discovered in | | | | agrees, ‘ Yes, why take such risks? I have made |
| Maligaon in 1994, was the earliest of any found with | | | | wooden curios my specialty' |
| Lichchavi inscriptions on it. | | | | They are obviously referring to the hue and cry about |
| Today this life sized statue of the famous king stands | | | | stolen idols and so are wary of dealing in the same. |
| tall and proud in the room displaying stone sculptures at | | | | They are right of course. In earlier years, news about |
| the National Museum in Chauni. The Museum is a | | | | precious idols stolen from temples and elsewhere used |
| treasure trove of numerous other antiques that | | | | to be a regular item in newspapers. Even caretakers, |
| collectors would give their eyeteeth for. Connoisseurs | | | | including priests, were said to be involved. It was a fact |
| of such ancient objects d'art should also know that the | | | | that such misdeeds occurred under the protection of |
| Kathmandu Valley itself is a museum of sorts, and that | | | | many high placed officials in government and law |
| antiques can be seen in many old houses, courtyards, | | | | enforcement agencies. |
| temples and monasteries. | | | | The theft of a 5th century, 1.2 meters tall Gilded Head |
| Of course, if the connoisseur wishes to possess a | | | | of ‘Dipankar Budha' on February 16th 2002, from its |
| few of such exquisite curios then there are quite a | | | | caretaker's house in Nag Bahal of Patan caused an |
| few reputable antique shops strewn about Kathmandu, | | | | international furore. It was later revealed that a |
| mainly in Thamel, Basantpur and Durbar Marg, besides | | | | German art collector had tried to sell it to the |
| of course numerous shops in Bhaktapur and Patan. | | | | Ethnographic Museum in Vienna for $200,000. Due to |
| According to Mr. Binod Khanal of ‘Antique Gallery' | | | | its timely identification by scholars of the University of |
| in Durbar Marg, ‘Although there are many curio | | | | Vienna with help from the Buddhist community of |
| shops with a wide range of interesting items, I think | | | | Patan, the ‘Dipankar Budha' was returned in May |
| there are probably ten to fifteen genuine antique shops | | | | 2002. |
| in town.' His father, Mr.Bhola Khanal has been in the | | | | No wonder then, that a 122cm x 49cm bronze |
| business for the last thirty years and they have | | | | ‘Dipankar Budha'(1824 A.D.), of Nardevi, has been |
| participated in handicraft exhibitions in Germany (2002) | | | | sent to the National Museum as a precautionary |
| as well as in Italy (2003).Binod once exhibited 65 | | | | measure and is taken out only once a year, for a |
| masks of the Tharu region in an exhibition, ‘ Le | | | | week, during the Gaijatra festival. |
| comours des manque' (the commerce of masks), in | | | | It would be worth mentioning here, that, before 1950, |
| Paris in September 2004. | | | | many antiques must have traveled abroad due to lack |
| ‘ The exhibition was in front of Versailles Museum,' | | | | of definite legislation. In fact it was only in 1952 that the |
| he reveals, ‘ My partner, Monsieur Christophu | | | | Department of Archaeology was established and it |
| Magal, a French antique dealer, organized the event. | | | | was not until 1956 that the Ancient Monuments |
| Masks from Guatemala, Sri Lanka and Mexico were | | | | Preservation Act was passed. The law made it |
| also featured.' | | | | mandatory to acquire permission from the Department |
| Any particular reason for sending Tharu masks? | | | | of Archaeology before any statue and other artifacts |
| ‘ Well, yes,' Binod replies, ‘Christophu and I visited | | | | could be taken out of the country and it made it illegal |
| Chitwan and Dang once and produced a documentary | | | | to export artifacts more than a century old. |
| on Tharus. In the process we also collected Tharu | | | | Besides, idols that had been objects of worship, even if |
| masks and thought it would be appropriate for this | | | | for a day, were no more permitted to be taken out of |
| exhibition since we can also show the film. Most of the | | | | Nepal since they were now a part of living culture. |
| masks are pretty ancient and all are colorful.' Binod | | | | However, in the period between 1960 to 1980, the |
| also informed that the prices for the masks ranged | | | | tourism boom in the country resulted in widespread |
| from Rs.5000 to Rs. 35000 but were made available | | | | smuggling of antiques. In the 1980's, due to more |
| at lower prices at the exhibition. | | | | awareness, as well as efforts by international |
| Somewhat more expensive is an interesting copper | | | | organizations like UNESCO, this was controlled to a |
| Incense Stand in Curio Arts, Durbar Marg that is almost | | | | large extent. In fact during this period some priceless |
| two feet tall. The cover has a Mahankal deity, while | | | | antiques were even returned to Nepal. |
| around the broad circular vessel are three dragon | | | | Noteworthy among these was a statue of |
| mouths that spout smoke when incense is burned. | | | | ‘Sarsawati' of Pharping and a statue of ‘Uma |
| Samek Ratna Shaky, the owner, has priced it at Rs. | | | | Mahesvara' that were returned from London and the |
| 2,25,000.00. An intricately sculpted bronze statue of | | | | United States respectively. |
| Meghsambar costs around Rs. 2,75,000.00. | | | | Obviously, nowadays most antiques can be found only |
| As for Thankgkas (religion based paintings), according | | | | in the museums. But it must be mentioned that such |
| to K.B. Lama of Dharmapala Thangka Centre in | | | | priceless artifacts are worth seeing because they date |
| Durbar Marg, one will be lucky to find genuinely antique | | | | back thousands of years and speak of the rich cultural |
| Thangkas. ‘Nowadays very few old Thangkas | | | | history of Nepal. The National Museum is a treasure |
| come from Tibet,' says Lama. He exports Thangkas | | | | trove of antiques having on display, in addition to other |
| to Europe and has held a lot of exhibitions abroad. A | | | | treasure, almost a hundred stone and terracota |
| 6x4ft. Thangka depicting the Gelungpa Sect Lineage is | | | | statues dating from the 1st to the 19th century. |
| priced at Rs. 4,00,000.00. A twin set of Thangkas | | | | The huge, rugged and headless ‘Yaksha' of |
| depicting Dharmapala Manadala and Amituyus Buddha | | | | Handigaun is the earliest stone sculpture discovered in |
| based on Japanese style costs Rs. 4,00,000.00. | | | | Nepal and dates back to the 1st century A.D. Some |
| Birendra Shahi's ‘Thangka House' in Thamel | | | | other early stone sculptures are ‘Sri Laxmi'and |
| Chowk, has some of the most artistic and beautiful | | | | ‘Vishnu' (both 2nd century A.D.), also unearthed in |
| Thangkas and is available in many different themes | | | | Handigaun. |
| and sizes. One cannot but sigh in admiration at the | | | | ‘Gajalakshmi' (2nd century A.D.) of Chyesol Tole, |
| artists' artistry when one looks at some of the | | | | Patan, ‘Matrika' (2nd century A.D.) of Haaugal Bahal, |
| paintings. Prices range from a low of Rs. 500 to a high | | | | Patan, ‘Shiv' (3-4 century A.D.) of Handigaun, |
| of Rs. 60000.00. Each painting is a thing of exquisite | | | | ‘Purnakalash' (2nd century A.D.), and of course, |
| beauty and will probably be a joy forever to anyone | | | | ‘King Jayavarmma' (2nd century A.D.) are equally |
| fortunate enough to own one. | | | | valuable relics in stone. |
| Anil Bajracharya's ‘Fabulous Handicraft Centre' in | | | | There are many more sculptures dating back to 2nd |
| Thamel literally glitters with numerous gilted bronze | | | | and 3rd centuries in places like Bagalmukhi Temple, |
| statues. Prices range from Rs. 7000.00 for a small | | | | (Patan), Bhagvati Temple, (Deo Patan), Ganesa |
| intricately designed silver Buddha to Rs. 90000.00 and | | | | Temple, (Kirtipur), Pasupatinath Temple, TunalDevi |
| above for the larger gilt statues. ‘The statues are | | | | Temple in Bishalnagar. |
| made by various artists of Patan,' informs Anil. All the | | | | All this proves beyond doubt that the history of |
| idols are beautifully made and one can see that the | | | | Nepalese sculpture goes back two thousand years. |
| artists have given great attention to detail. Truly an | | | | There has also been a discovery of an early terracota |
| exhibition of Newari craftsmanship at its best. | | | | figure of ‘Sri Laxmi' (or Padma Shri), from Tilarkot in |
| Actually, most curio shops in the city are full of | | | | the Terai, datable to 1st century B.C. |
| interesting stuff and Hari Bista's ‘Shiv and Parvati | | | | As far as metalwork is concerned, Nepal has |
| Handicrafts' in Thamel is specially filled to the brim with | | | | numerous artifacts in bronze and copper dating back |
| intriguing objects. In fact, according to Binod of Antique | | | | to10th century A.D. Most of the statues were made |
| Gallery and Surya Khadga who has a curio shop in | | | | by using the Cira Perdua (Lost Wax) method. The |
| Thamel, Hari Bista is quite an expert on antiques. | | | | selected object was first modeled in wax, then coated |
| ‘ I have shifted shop five times already and am | | | | with clay leaving only a small opening. After the clay |
| thinking of shifting again,' Bista says, ‘ My first shop | | | | mold had dried, the wax was melted and poured out. |
| was in Basantpur. Those days business was good but | | | | Then the wax was replaced by molten metal. After |
| supplies were scanty. In the last 8-9 years however, | | | | sufficient cooling, the clay mold was broken to reveal |
| there have been plenty of people from all over Nepal | | | | the cast image. |
| who have been selling ancient heirlooms. Obviously | | | | Among the earliest metal antiques in the country are |
| must be because of poor economic conditions. But | | | | statues of ‘Ganesh', ‘Yaksani', and ‘Narayan' |
| business is so bad now that some days it is an | | | | (all from 10th century A.D.). The impressively sculpted |
| achievement just to make one sale.' | | | | bronze statue of Queen Lalit Tripura Sundari is almost |
| Another old timer, Om Narayan Shrestha of ‘New | | | | life size and is from the 20th century A.D. |
| Curio Shop' in Thamel says he has seen much better | | | | Nepal also boasts of a woodcarving culture dating |
| days and today his business is a dead loss. He has | | | | back to 15th century A.D. ‘Naitya Devi' (15th century |
| been in the business for almost three decades and | | | | A.D.) is one of the earliest discovered. As for antique |
| also had his shop in Basantpur in the beginning. | | | | paintings, ‘Krishna Lila', ‘Dasamvidya', ‘Shiv |
| Most shops have curios in wood, metal and fabric. | | | | Pariwar' are from the 18th century A.D. while a painting |
| Curios, whether antique or not, encompass a wide | | | | of ‘ Mahisasura Mardini' has been dated to 16th |
| variety of objects ranging from musical instruments, | | | | century A.D. |
| masks and boxes to vessels, primitive figures, bells, | | | | While most of the early antiques were depictions of |
| manuscripts and clothes. Antique locks (‘bhote | | | | Hindu Deities, Budhist sculpture only started to appear |
| talchas'), ‘Mana Pathis' (set of 8 measuring vessels | | | | in the valley from 5th century A.D. Among the earliest |
| of Lichavi period), ‘Dhungro' (milking pails), | | | | are the ‘Budha head' (7th century A.D.), measuring |
| ‘Shaman sets' (belt with lots of curious hardware | | | | 16cmx11cmx10cm and a 74cmx32cmx8cm ‘Budha', |
| worn by Tamang shamans), ‘Lisnus' (narrow | | | | (9th century A.D.). Among early Budhist literature, the |
| wooden ladders of Trishuli), and many other intriguing | | | | ‘Arya Asthasahasrika prajnaparamite', a manuscript |
| items can be found in such shops. | | | | written in Nilpatre with golden letters in Tibetan Uchhen |
| The musical instruments available are indigenous ones | | | | script, dates back to the 13th century A.D. |
| like ‘narsimha', ‘dama', ‘dholke', ‘jhyali', | | | | Among antique coins in Nepal, the ‘punch marked |
| ‘sehnai', ‘tempu' and ‘kernel' as well as | | | | coins' (5-6 B.C.), the ‘Kushan coins' (1st century A.D.) |
| ‘dhyangro', ‘bansuri', ‘tungna', ‘sarangi' | | | | and the ‘Lichchavi coins' (5th century AD) are |
| etc… There are also lots of curios from Tibet, mostly | | | | among the most ancient. The first stamps were |
| red wooden chests (presumably brought from | | | | introduced in Nepal in 1881 AD and ‘One Anna', |
| monasteries), leather boxes, thankas (paintings), and | | | | ‘Two Anna' and ‘Four Anna' stamps are the |
| even old chairs and carpets. One can also find ancient | | | | earliest. |
| carved doors, various kinds of weapons, old jewelry, | | | | There is no doubt that Nepal is a country with a history |
| and such things in the shops. | | | | rich in art and culture and the presence of so many |
| In fact, ‘such things' can be so many varied kinds of | | | | antiques proves the point. Many people have devoted |
| objects that one would really have to spend a few | | | | themselves to the preservation of such priceless |
| hours inside Hari Bista's shop to comprehend the | | | | antiquities. One example that comes to mind is the late |
| variety. | | | | Dwarika Das Shrestha who actively searched for, |
| How does one judge the antiquity of an object? | | | | collected, and saved ancient carved windows which |
| ‘ It's almost impossible to know the age of an | | | | he later incorporated into the world renowned |
| object,' Hari Bista says, ‘ Previously we used to go | | | | Dwarika's Hotel. |
| by its patina (the sheen on the object or its handle due | | | | Another name that must be mentioned is that of the |
| to years of use), but that too is not a reliable criteria | | | | late Lain S. Bangdel, noted painter and art historian, |
| today as it can be manipulated. Anyway, most tourists | | | | whose single-minded devotion resulted in the return of |
| don't care much about whether something they like is | | | | many antiques that were in foreign lands. |
| genuinely antique or not.' | | | | Efforts of such people must be all the more |
| Prices of curios vary widely. Musical instruments can | | | | appreciated if we are to realize that not many |
| cost anywhere from a few hundred to ten thousand | | | | countries can boast of such ancient civilizations. |
| rupees. A ‘kangring' (small trumpet made from | | | | Therefore the preservation of this precious heritage is |
| femur bone of humans), costs Rs. 6000.00 at the | | | | a matter of utmost importance and everyone should |
| Antique Gallery. A set of eight ‘Mana Pathi' | | | | take pride in such a cultural history. |
| measuring vessels can cost from Rs.6000 to Rs. | | | | Besides the museums, it would be worthwhile to see |
| 10000.00. | | | | for oneself the plethora of intriguing and varied curios in |
| ‘Bhote talchas' (locks) with single lever costs about | | | | the many shops in the valley. And the variety is |
| Rs.2000.00 while double locks cost Rs.3500.00. A | | | | diverse all right, as befitting a country with such |
| ‘kafi techya' (Newari tobacco box) costs Rs. | | | | diversity in culture, language, religion and ethnicity, |
| 6000.00 and ‘thekis' (old vessels used in making | | | | besides of course, antiquity of civilization. Curios can |
| curd) costs from Rs. 400 to Rs.5000.00 depending | | | | arouse interest in the curious. Who knows, interest |
| upon size. Tibetan chests and boxes are | | | | could lead to a fascinating hobby, that of curio |
| comparatively more expensive and can cost from | | | | collection. |
| Rs.10000 to Rs. 1,25,000.00, again depending upon size. | | | | It must be said that this can not only be an interesting |
| Of course, there is no fixed price on curios. | | | | pastime but a beneficial one too. Such a hobby could |
| According to Mr. Bista, ‘ People come with goods | | | | reap rich rewards, if not immediately, then years later. |
| to sell and if I like something I name a price depending | | | | A particular object d'art could well turn out to be a |
| upon current trends. I can't sell with unreasonable | | | | treasure international collectors would, as said before, |
| margins as there are too many shops around | | | | give their eyeteeth for! Right now, for obvious reasons, |
| nowadays and competition is stiff. Right now I am | | | | prices are low, and exquisite curios can be had for a |
| purchasing any ‘dhungros' (milking pails) that is on | | | | few hundred rupees. So, for the curious, now is the |
| offer. ‘Dhungros' from eastern Nepal (especially | | | | perfect time to start this intriguing hobby. |
| Dhankuta) are quite old while those from Kavre are | | | | All right then, let's go curio hunting. |
| newer.' | | | | |