| Straight Razors Explained By Dr Shave | | | | it finally goes back to its old position and will become |
| The following extract was taken from the Ask Dr | | | | very fine again. Nevertheless the burr will wear out |
| Shave’ Webpage at | | | | after a certain period of time, and then the suitable |
| ( | | | | razor strop should be bought. |
| What is a straight razor? | | | | How do I whet the razor with the strop? |
| A cut throat razor has a single straight blade that is | | | | While flat blades are whetted on a suspended strop |
| attached to a handle by a hinge and that is stored by | | | | (velvet knives), 1/2 or 1/1 concave blades require a |
| folding it edge-first into a slot in the handle of the razor. | | | | hanging strop made of fine cowhide leather or |
| This method of shaving with a cut throat razor or | | | | extremely supple Russia leather either with a turning |
| straight razor is the most traditional and argued by | | | | device for hanging up or with hemp hose on the back, |
| some shaving traditionalists as the only way to shave. | | | | which serves to align the "fin" in the direction pointing |
| The straight-edge razor was also called the cut-throat | | | | away from the razor. If required, the leather side can |
| razor because it was dangerous enough to cut a | | | | be rubbed with an extremely thin layer of fine abrasive |
| man's throat. .History | | | | paste (red paste) and - for a final polishing on a |
| As far back as the civilisations of Rome and Greece | | | | separate strop - with polishing paste (black paste), |
| used iron blades with a long handle and developed the | | | | which is worked in with the ball of the thumb. |
| shape of the cut-throat' razor which was the only | | | | Stropping is performed at a flat angle with the back of |
| pratical razor until the 19th century. With improvements | | | | the razor laid on the strop; the razor is drawn in the |
| in steel manufacture came cut throat razor blades that | | | | direction away from the body. The razor is then turned |
| were really sharp and capable of being re-sharpening. | | | | over on its back and drawn in towards the body. |
| Advances in razor technology changed shaving habits | | | | Changing directions without turning the razor over |
| in the 20th century. In 1900, most men were either | | | | makes the blade become round (crowned) so that the |
| shaved by the local barber (your trusted confidante, | | | | cutting properties are lost. In this case, only |
| wielding a cut throat razor), or periodically at home | | | | re-sharpening can help. |
| when required, rather than regularly. The barber's | | | | Straight razors are usually whetted in the factory for |
| better-off customers would have personal sets of | | | | use (whetting on leather by hand). If you own a |
| seven cut throat razors, labelled 'Sunday' to 'Saturday'. | | | | suitable strop, you should nevertheless take into |
| Today, nearly all men shave everyday in their own | | | | account that the razor must first "rest" after use. After |
| homes, using a wide variety of equipment. | | | | the razor has been carefully rinsed and dried, it should |
| Cut-throat razor must be used with extreme caution. | | | | not be used again for at least 24 - 48 hours because |
| Executive Shaving would be very pleased to give | | | | the fine "fin" on the cutting edge straightens up again |
| advice on using the cut-throat razor before purchase. | | | | extremely slowly. If the razor is stropped too soon (or |
| Straight Razor Material. | | | | stropped incorrectly by moving it backwards and |
| In general, the blades of straight razors are made of | | | | forwards without turning it over), the "fin" which is |
| steel, the more recent razors have blades made from | | | | necessary for a close shave breaks off. Between six |
| stainless steel. The manufacturer’s markings | | | | and fifteen shaves are possible without stropping in |
| are often found engraved or etched on the blades | | | | between.How do I shave with a straight razor? |
| which may include the model. | | | | The beginner starts first with the smooth and |
| The Handles of straight razors are made from all sorts | | | | unproblematic areas of the face. To do this, the open |
| of different materials, including wood, rubber, horn, ivory, | | | | straight razor is held with thumb and three fingers so |
| Bakelite, vegetable ivory, and metal. Inlays and additions | | | | that the opened holder points away from the face. |
| can be of mother of pearl, silver, copper, ivory, wood, | | | | Lathered with good shaving soap and thus made |
| tortoiseshell. | | | | supple, the skin must be tightened; the straight razor is |
| Looking after your cut throat razor. | | | | moved at an angle of approx. 30° firstly in the |
| The straight razor must be properly looked after in | | | | direction of growth of the beard and then against the |
| order to ensure the maintenance and long life of this | | | | direction of growth. If held too flat, the razor rips the |
| traditional men's accessory. While straight razors made | | | | stubble; if held too upright, it cuts the skin. Always |
| of stainless steel are less demanding, other straight | | | | move it in the direction of the cutting edge and never |
| razors have to be rinsed with clear water and | | | | horizontally (danger of injury); always draw it through |
| thoroughly dried after each use. When not in use for | | | | evenly and hold it a little more upright at corners, |
| longer periods, it is recommended that the blade of the | | | | dimples and at the upper lip. If the razor gets damaged |
| straight razor be rubbed with light oil. Likewise, the | | | | by being dropped or when being put into its holder, it |
| razor should not be stored in a damp and unaired | | | | should not be used further. Stropping does not help |
| state. There is no generally valid rule for the whetting | | | | here; the razor must be re-sharpened and whetted by |
| (stropping) of straight razors; in many cases, it is | | | | a specialist.Tips for straight razor users.In general, the |
| sufficient to draw the razor lightly over the ball of the | | | | best environment in which to store straight razors is |
| thumb, especially when it has been left unused for | | | | well-ventilated, dark, room temperature (72F or 20C), |
| several days between shaves. Wet shavers of the | | | | and neither too dry, nor too damp. |
| old school know that the facet (blade) "grows", i.e. the | | | | - It is advisable to keep straight razors out of water |
| microscopically discernible and extremely fine "fin" on | | | | and away from liquids as much as possible -- both |
| the cutting edge changes during the shave but returns | | | | because water will encourage the iron-based blades |
| to its old position afterwards; it stretches and again | | | | to rust, and also because water can cause serious |
| becomes extremely fine. Nevertheless, this fine "fin" will | | | | damage to many handle materials. Cleaning straight |
| still wear away at some stage and a suitable strop | | | | razors with bleach, ammonia or detergents is |
| should then be bought. | | | | discouraged, as these substances can also cause |
| There is no common rule for sharpening of straight | | | | damage. |
| razors; sometimes it is sufficient to sharpen it at the | | | | - The Blade: Metal polishes, such as Brasso, Silvo, or |
| ball of the thumb, especially if the razor is not used for | | | | Autosol should never be used on the blade of a |
| several days. People, who often use razors, know: the | | | | straight razor. As well as damaging the surface, they |
| cutting edge is growing, meaning that the very fine burr | | | | can leave polish residues which are both unattractive, |
| on the cutting edge (which can be seen under the | | | | and can be harmful to the blade and handle. |
| microscope) changes whenever the razor is used, but | | | | |